The Filipino idea of Europe is the usual France, Italy, and Spain. But beyond the usual touristic itineraries in Western Europe is a treasure trove of less-discovered sights in Eastern Europe – among them in the small-yet-mighty country of Czechia.
And in the southeastern part of Czechia lies the charming city of Brno, which I had the pleasure of discovering early this year. It’s been a few months since, and I’m raring to go back.
Getting There
Brno has its own airport (IATA code: BRQ), located 6km from the city centre. A few airlines fly there, and with the general lack of routes, airfares can be expensive.
Thus, the better course of action would be to fly to the Czech capital of Prague, or the Austrian capital of Vienna.
Since Vienna International Airport is better served by low-cost airlines, I chose it as my jump-off point to Brno and the rest of Czechia. Besides, Vienna is only less than a two-hour bus ride away from Brno, and thanks to Flixbus, fares are inexpensive.
Exploring the streets of old town Brno
Brno, pronounced phonetically, is the second-largest city in Czechia. Measuring 230 square kilometres, Brno packs a punch in terms of culture and history. While there’s much to see and do elsewhere in Czechia, you can certainly make a trip out of Brno all on its own.
The city’s foremost highlight is, of course, the old town. The streets of Brno’s old town offer a unique insight into the city’s and Czechia’s past, thanks to a plethora of historical sites and their corresponding stories to tell.
First, I visited the Capuchin Monastery, which serves as one of the old town’s highlights. Built in 1739, the Baroque monastery uniquely features a macabre crypt, where visitors can see mummified Capuchin monks.
Another highlight of the old town is Church of St. James, a gothic church dating back to the 13th century. What I found striking were the pillars that mightily surround the nave of the church – it was unlike many other European churches.
After popping into the church, I went back to the Freedom Square (Náměstí Svobody in Czech), the old town’s epicentre and hub of action. I felt contented taking it all in – the majestic buildings that surrounded it, and the people milling about to admire them.
Among the highlights nearby include the Klein Palace, a striking Renaissance structure. Also keep an eye for the astronomical clock that one might mistake for a rocket sculpture.
Lastly, I made a detour to Spilberk Castle, an 18th-century fortress that nests atop the city’s highest point, Petrov Hill. There, I saw a bird’s eye view of the city below, as well as a glimpse into the castle’s turbulent past. Spillberk Castle was once used as an army barracks and prison during World War II – but these days, it stands strong as a symbol of Brno’s rich history.
Collectively, these highlights of Brno’s old town gave me great insight into the city’s Bohemian culture and history.
They also showed a side of history we in the Philippines aren’t too familiar with – one that proves that there’s more to Europe than Roman and Greek mythology, and its infamous wars.
Discovering the food and culture of Brno
While Brno’s old town showcases the city’s landmarks, the city’s culture goes beyond it. With Brno’s youthful energy and intriguing cuisine, there’s simply much more to discover throughout the city.
As a foodie, I gamely tried the city’s cuisine. Of course, I didn’t miss the traditional dishes, such as svíčková na smetaně (beef sirloin with cream sauce) with knedlíky (dumplings). Don’t make the same mistake as I did, thinking “dumplings” are the same as Asian dumplings with meat. Rather, in the Czech context, dumplings are like steamed bread that can either be savoury or sweet.
A good way to savour these dishes are with signature Czech beers, such as Pilsner Urquell and Kozel.
Over the few days I was in Brno, I immersed myself with local food, thanks to the city’s haunts, as well as the markets, where you can find everything from locally-grown vegetables to homemade cheeses and cured meats.
Aside from the cuisine, Brno is best embodied by the the contrast of its youthful and traditional culture.
On one hand, you have Brno’s best bars and clubs that I, of course, had to try out. Aside from the outstanding electronic dance music, I liked how affordable nightlife is in Brno, compared to other European cities.
The other facet of Brno’s culture is more traditional, which lets you immerse yourself into traditional folk music and regional dances. Several venues around the city offer cultural presentations, some alongside a meal.
If I were to sum the few days I spent in Brno, I’d say I found a city that I’d rank among my most favourite ones in Europe.
Foremost, from accommodations to food, everything is inexpensive, when most of Europe costs perhaps double. My enjoyment of a place usually depends on how inexpensive it is.
Next, the food suits my Filipino palate, and again, for me to like a place, I must like the local cuisine. I could spend weeks in Brno and the rest of Czechia, if only for the food.
But most importantly, Brno offers a spellbinding allure unlike the typical Western European city. With its culture and history alone, I appreciated its contrast from towns and cities in France or Italy, both of which serve as Filipinos’ idea of Europe.
Simply put, spending time in Brno widened my horizons of what Europe is about.
